Kallio (New York Times 3/31/13)

“There was a time when Kallio, a working-class district north of central Helsinki and somewhat akin to the old, grittier iteration of the Bowery in Manhattan, was considered off-limits to visitors. But today, those who venture across the Siltasaarensalmi strait, which divides Kallio from the rest of the Finnish capital will find a sizzling sector percolating with exotic cafes, sleek restaurants and clubs serving fine cuisine, and inviting walk-in studio-boutiques — all nestled in the shadow of Lars Sonck’s landmark 100-year-old church. Of course, there is still a chance of stumbling into one of the grotto-like dives for which the area is renowned, but that is part and parcel of the Kallio experience.”
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